helsinki 2 july 2026

This morning I noticed there was actually a cafe of some description across the park from this airbnb so I went there and asked for a double espresso - the only kind of coffee I can drink in a non-coffee country like this. The girl behind the counter (no doubt actually a woman behind the counter but no doubt closer to the age of 0 than I am to the age of 100, so 'girl' seems appropriate somehow) pointed to the coffee machine, which looked perfectly fine to me, and said that she couldn't make a double espresso, only an espresso. So I stupidly got an Americano, I really don't know why. 

After that I had to remedy with a real double espresso from a chain. Then even though I have vowed no more pastries, the devil made me get a pulla. So silly.

Other things from today: 

'Waiter. One red-green Helsinki and the cheapest triple sec in the house, thank you!' Yeah I don't get it either. 

So I went to the Workers museum with Steve and Franziska (however while I was there I left my phone in my bag hence no pictures - I got a brochure I'll show you later). Before I went there though I went to a nearby flea market and saw:

I looked at a lot of CDs, none of them seemed particularly exciting. 

How much would you pay for a racist licorice tin? This was priced at €100.

Old friend

1 july helsinki

Remarkable. As is the national library...

The conference had a 'mobile workshop' i.e. field trip visiting Puu-Käpylä - I couldn't resist that. Even though I've been there many times before, including earlier in the week! 

On the way back I dropped into this place, which provided me a very valuable service insofar as I selected a bunch of curious looking things and was queuing at the counter and the guy behind the counter was just talking, talking (obviously I have no idea what about) to a customer, with at least one other person waiting besides me, and his tone was so much that of Comic Book Guy, I was able to talk myself out of buying anything, put it all back and left. 

Current mood:

But this willl pass... 

helsinki 30 june-1 july

It is Wednesday 1 July and I am in Tintin the Cafe aka Tintin the Bakery with no Tintin memorabilia or merch anywhere around, that's nice. I'm getting sugary shizzle on my keyboard because I am eating a cinnamon bun - like, with my fingers, and then typing.

A lot of dogs are going past - true.

Last time I gave a conference paper in Finland I was met with bafflement, but yesterday I feel it went really well. The other papers were, you know, fascinating but of course became a mish-mash after a time, to the extent that ultimately I was left making the classic response 'those are all words'. Subsequently by the end of the day I was fucked up with no blood sugar and I was pleased to see that close to our digs in Jätkäsaari there is a vietnamese vegan restaurant. Initially I'm pretty sure google map directed me to a big hole in the ground but then I found it, and it was grouse. I mean the plate of food I had would have satisfied five people, I exaggerate, but satisfied two and maybe three. But it was excellent. I will go back. 

(That stain on the ground was there when I got there btw).

Earlier in the day yesterday I paid a quick trip to Tapiola to find rather disappointingly/worryingly that the old shopping centre, which I always enjoyed, is now boarded up and not looking at all happy. I suspect it might be at its end. 

helsinki 29 june 2026

 big day tell you later

helsinki 28/29 june 2026

Yesterday morning just after the Taivaskallio visit walking back to the Park Hotel - passing these boarded up buildings - I wonder what they were - they look slightly more institutional than apartments but maybe that's all they were. 

Back at Käpylä the kioski was doing great business (many I've seen around are apparently derelict, as per the Karhupuisto one) and once again I am struck by the ridiculous truth that, for some reason, in Australia we can't have this. I really don't know why but it's apparently the case. 

I suppose we have analogs to it so I should not be so whingey but when Melbourne is so boastful all the time about its coffee chops, why not institute a straight up kiosk and park culture in Melbourne?

That said, as mentioned, the kiosks are often empty and unused. As per this one:

 

Anyway so... here's something else I saw (below). I imagine a seagull is on the head of this statue more often than not. 

I suppose I will fight to the death for op shops to sell any trash they find, but it is slightly disgusting that this book - surely banned in Finland or it should be - is available on a secondhand shelf. 

In the afternoon of the 28 a lot of the time was spent at Jätkäsaari, which is a new suburb right next to central Helsinki, built on former port land. I am interested in this place. 

I'm sorry you had to see this (but you did).

Sometimes I take a picture of an industiral-ish landscape and I think 'that's so Jeffrey Smart', a credit to Smart, not me. 

I woke up early this morning (29 June). 3:30 am. It was light. 

Cafe I went to this morning, because it opens at 7:30 (earliest in the area) and had good reviews. I think it is called Kulma Kahvila. 

helsinki 28 june - 2 (taivaskallio)

I decided to walk to what seemed like the nearest cafe open on a Sunday from the Park Hotel and a minor deviation into a park en route (and the decision to climb a steep hill - 'climb' seems too much, it was a short path) got me to this. Big surprise. 

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I tried to find the site of this cafe  but it wasn't evident. 

It so gets on my wick that the union jack is used to designate 'English' though I suppose there is sense in it somewhere, somehow.